Jump to navigation

Where dorado is king

Exploring Argentina's Iberá Marshlands in search of golden dorado

by Earl Harper - Thursday, Jan 24th, 2019

ibera marshlands argentina

Photos: Earl Harper and Chad Shmukler, Words: Chad Shmukler.

When leaving the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires' international airport, you'll see groups of anglers peppered throughout the masses of travelers assembling outside the customs exit—chatting with newly arrived companions, meeting with drivers that will shuttle them across town to the domestic airport, piling and stacking bags of gear. Almost all of them are headed south. And west. In search of trout in Patagonia or Tierra del Fuego. But instead of shuttling across town to catch a flight to San Martin, Bariloche or Rio Grande, we're prepping to ride north. North to Corrientes, to the Iberá Marshlands, the second largest wetland on the entire globe, a region twice the size of the entirety of the Florida Everglades, and home to seemingly countless rivers, creeks, streams, sloughs, lakes and ponds where the golden dorado is king.

Almost entirely protected as a nature preserve since 1983, the Iberá Marshlands—or Esteros del Iberá—is known for its crystal-clear, unpolluted waters. Due to the region's unique geology, the marshlands are a nearly closed system with no inflow—other than rainfall—and only minor outflow. The region is also uninfluenced by mining or industry, due to the lack of either in proximity of the marshlands.

ABOVE
The sun rises on the Ibera Marshlands (photo: Earl Harper).
pira lodge
ABOVE
Perched on farmland on the edge of the reserve is Pira Lodge, the only operation of its kind in the region and one with direct and easy access to the reserve (photo: Earl Harper).
Ibera marshlands
ABOVE
Ibera is essentially one enormous, landless floodplain—its creeks, streams, lakes and ponds formed by partially submerged, floating vegetation. Papyrus, lilies, water hyacinth, lettuces, hibiscus, victorias and other vegetation entangle to form floating mats called embalsados which channel and shape the marsh's waters and are commonly thick and strong enough to walk on (photo: Earl Harper).
Ibera marshlands
ABOVE
Navigating the marshlands means winding your way through mazelike channels and passageways, each turn offering the chance to discover something new—an unfished lagoon, creek or channel or even an unknown passage through the marshlands to a yet undiscovered part of the reserve (photo: Earl Harper).
Iberá marshlands bird
Iberá marshlands vegetation
ABOVE
Life of all forms abounds in the marsh, which is known for staggering biodiversity. Over 4,000 different species of plants and animals, including over 350 species of birds, call Iberá home (photos: Earl Harper [top], Chad Shmukler [bottom]).
capybara
ABOVE
Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris)—the largest rodent in the world at sizes up to 145 pounds—are seen daily throughout the marsh. Capybara, which are also called carpincho in Spanish, are highly social and are almost always observed in large families and groups (photo: Chad Shmukler).
yacare caiman
ABOVE
Both the yacare caiman (Yacaré negro), also known as the black caiman, and the broad-snouted caiman (Yacaré overo) are also encountered with regularity through the reserve (photo: Chad Shmukler).
Iberá marshlands fly fishing
Iberá marshlands fly fishing
ABOVE
But it is the king of the marsh, the golden dorado (Salminus brasiliensis), that we have come to ply Iberá's waters for—to cast big, bushy, brightly-colored streamers through its rivers and streams and to swim and skate mouse patterns through its twisted channels, hoping to entice a strike (photos: Chad Shmukler).
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
ABOVE
The quiet peace of the marshlands is shattered when a dorado takes. Lines lurch, water froths and the surface erupts (photo: Chad Shmukler).
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
ABOVE
Dorado that fail to put on a show before being corralled and released are virtually non-existent. The only question once a connection is formed with one of the marsh's voracious predators is how many times and how high they'll leap (photo: Chad Shmukler [top], Earl Harper [middle, bottom]).
piranha eaten fly
ABOVE
In fact, should the surface not erupt, it's only seconds before all involved realize that another Iberá predator, the piranha, has grabbed the offering—more often than not sending back only this (photo: Earl Harper).
piranha
ABOVE
In addition to the dorado, piranha like this one are in abundance throughout the reserve (photo: Chad Shmukler).
Río Corriente
ABOVE
Fishing Iberá doesn't just mean stripping flies through its smaller creeks and streams, it also includes time spent on Río Corriente, which courses through the marsh only minutes by boat from Pira Lodge (photo: Earl Harper).
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
ABOVE
The river, like the rest of Iberá, offers consistent fishing for dorado and can be home to some of the marsh's bigger fish (photo: Earl Harper [top], Chad Shmukler [bottom]).
Iberá marshlands
ABOVE
Exploring farther into the reserve often means the hard work of navigating the skiff through impossibly tight channels (photo: Chad Shmukler).
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
ABOVE
The payoff, however, can be more than worth the effort, revealing untouched channels, lagoons and more (photo: Chad Shmukler).
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
golden dorado - Iberá marshlands
ABOVE
Which, unsurprisingly, often hold some of the marsh's most zealous and impressive dorado (photos: Earl Harper [top, middle], Chad Shmukler [bottom]).
Iberá marshlands fly fishing
ABOVE
Encounters with the king of the marsh, with the dorado that we've traveled halfway across the globe to chase, never seem to grow tiring. Each well placed fly that produces a strike right where you had expected one, each placid channel we pole and discover patrolling dorado, each up-close inspection of the dorado's gold-flecked scales, blinding yellow sides and crimson-hued tails only leave us in search of more. And so, as the stillness of dusk descends on the marsh, we steal a few last casts, greedily hoping to shatter the peace once more (photo: Earl Harper).

For more information on fishing the Ibera Marshlands for golden dorado, visit Pira Lodge.
Golden Dorado
Argentina
piranha

$3

HATCH MAGAZINE

Enjoying your reading?

Support from readers like you helps make our award-winning content possible.

Become a Hatch Magazine sustainer for as little as $3.

→ SHOW ME HOW
  •  
  • BLOG

    Latest Blog Post

    car fly fishing stickers
    The bedazzled angler

    They sit in a forgotten drawer in my tying desk, intermingling with odd-sized hooks, old fly boxes, and other ephemera that have eddied into this backwater over time. Some...

    view blog post

    More Blog Posts

    lolo national forest
    This is water we are talking about
    deschutes river oregon - steelhead fishing
    Get up, stand up

    From the Archives

    Ben Knight films a river that someone forgot to dam in Washington’s Olympic National Park.
    DamNation Documentary Now Available to Rent or Buy
    deer skull closeup
    To the bone
  • PHOTOGRAPHY

    Latest Photography

    Words: Todd Tanner.   Images: Tim Romano and Jeremy Roberts.

    There are days when I’m not convinced our society can tell the difference between a blessing...

    view gallery

    More Photography

    From the Archives

    Business Trip: Wisconsin's Driftless Region
    Cascades Valley
    Fishtamatic: Ditching the SLR for the iPhone
  • TRAVEL

    Latest Travel

    redfish fly fishing
    Redfish: The gateway to a flats habit

    When we were kids, my generation was dutifully warned about the evils of substance abuse. We were warned of complete strangers wandering oh-so-purposely into our paths...

    view article

    More Travel

    float plane painting by bob white
    Tips for the traveling angler
    torres del paine region fly fishing
    Trout under the towers

    From the Archives

    maine pond canoe
    Dreaming Maine
    Lower Green River Lake
    4 underrated Western trout towns
  • CONSERVATION

    Latest Conservation

    okefenokee swamp
    Okefenokee is now a UNESCO World Heritage site

    Just a year ago, the future of the largest American wilderness area east of the Mississippi River was in question, as biologists and conservationists feared that a...

    view article

    More Conservation

    canada bc bull trout
    Should we be targeting bull trout anywhere?
    Mike Lee at the June 10, 2026 Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources hearing
    Mike Lee, GOP colleagues move to permanently kill the Roadless Rule

    From the Archives

    Rainbow Trout
    Our most popular articles of 2015 - Part I
    record tiger muskie utah
    The tiger king of alpine lakes
  • REVIEWS

    Latest Review

    redington big game rod next to musky
    Review: Redington Big Game 11- and 12-weight Musky Fly Rods

    Modern-day fly anglers are incredibly lucky to be living through a time of intense specialization, particularly in the warmwater space. From the sometimes mind-boggling...

    view review

    More Reviews

    orvis recon 3 fly rod
    Review: Orvis Recon fly rod (3rd generation — 2026)
    st. croix legend elite salt fly rod
    Review: St. Croix Legend Elite SALT fly rod

    From the Archives

    SJK Gear Hone Backpack
    Review: SJK Gear Hone Backpack
    Simms Flyweight Access Wading Boots
    Review: Simms Flyweight Access Wading Boots
  • TIPS

    Latest Tip

    A British Columbia bull trout
    The flutter: Get your fly in the zone

    Some think of streamer anglers as the “nose tackles” of fly fishing.

    view article

    More Tips

    trout sipping a mayfly
    How far should you lead a rising trout?
    redfish fly fishing
    Redfish: The gateway to a flats habit

    From the Archives

    West Carson River, CA
    So you want to be a great trout fisherman
    fly pattern
    How to make your own killer fly
  • NEWS

    Latest News

    okefenokee swamp
    Okefenokee is now a UNESCO World Heritage site

    Just a year ago, the future of the largest American wilderness area east of the Mississippi River was in question, as biologists and conservationists feared that a...

    view article

    More News

    tuna on display at a market
    El Niño is already scrambling fisheries throughout the Pacific
    Mike Lee at the June 10, 2026 Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources hearing
    Mike Lee, GOP colleagues move to permanently kill the Roadless Rule

    From the Archives

    Clayquot Sound Steelhead
    New Study Offers Further Evidence of Lethal Virus in Pacific Northwest Salmon
    bristol bay sockeye salmon
    EPA issues final determination blocking development of Pebble Mine
  •