Alex Landeen takes us to Pyramid Lake where the stars are out.
by Alex Landeen - Tuesday, Oct 7th, 2014
Headlamps and dome lights. You have to get up pretty early to get a prime spot on the ladder line, or in our case drive twelve hours and hope you aren't late to the party.
"Keep your ladder out in front of you," said Kyle's silhouette as it bobbed in the blackness; rounded edges moving against a sharp inky horizon. I shifted my grip on the aluminum frame and pushed farther out into the cold water, following closely. "If you step off the edge it will keep you from going under." I nodded in the dark, deciding that I was not particularly interested in "going under." I looked to my left, north up the shore and saw a few specs of light and the hint of others pushing out, darker on dark, so faint that they disappeared if you stared at them directly.
If April showers bring May flowers, then maybe April blizzards bring May hatches? Sometimes cabin fever wins and, when spring is late in coming, the show must go on. Guides, anglers, and industry folk mingle at an Orvis-hosted event in late April in downtown Craig, Montana.
The Missouri River is known the world ‘round for its large brown trout, feisty rainbows, and cowboy attitude. This is where the cool kids come to play, fishing under the endless big sky and basking in legendary hatches thick enough to coat vehicles and determined enough to survive the Great Plains wind.
Permit have achieved somewhat of a mythical status in the fishing world. They are said to be wily. Spooky. Selective. Whatever the case, largely considered more rare and elusive than bonefish or tarpon, they are regarded by many to be the crown jewel of the world of saltwater flats fishing. They are also generally thought of as exceedingly difficult to take on a fly.
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Each day begins with a simple reminder: even in Ascension Bay, shots at permit are not to be wasted. Leave the trout fisherman in you at home and strip set. Strip set. Strip set. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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Mexican panga boats can navigate remarkably skinny water, almost as skinny as the most advanced modern flats skiffs. Unlike flats skiffs, however, panga boats have the brawn to handle often encountered swell and chop that is part of the long runs across Ascension Bay. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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The flats on Ascension Bay stretch on seemingly endlessly, offering opportunities for lengthy searches for permit, bonefish and other local species. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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Storms roll in only moments after arriving on a prime bonefish flat. Yet, despite steady rain and entirely flat light, guide Arun spots a few cruising bonefish 25 yards off. A couple of casts and backing runs later, a healthy bonefish comes to hand (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/2) As quickly as the storm approaches, it passes, and sun re-appears on the northern horizon. The many bonefish that come to hand continue to surprise in terms of their size. While Ascension Bay's bonefish are known to be plentiful in number, they aren't known for their size. Reports from recent years suggest large specimens are becoming more common, and the evidence matches (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/2) As quickly as the storm approaches, it passes, and sun re-appears on the northern horizon. The many bonefish that come to hand continue to surprise in terms of their size. While Ascension Bay's bonefish are known to be plentiful in number, they aren't known for their size. Reports from recent years suggest large specimens are becoming more common, and the evidence matches (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/4) An idyllic island serves as a meeting point for a midday lunch where tales of the morning's happenings are shared. Resident iguanas quickly emerge from the jungle brush in search of handouts from anglers (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/4) An idyllic island serves as a meeting point for a midday lunch where tales of the morning's happenings are shared. Resident iguanas quickly emerge from the jungle brush in search of handouts from anglers (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/4) An idyllic island serves as a meeting point for a midday lunch where tales of the morning's happenings are shared. Resident iguanas quickly emerge from the jungle brush in search of handouts from anglers (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(4/4) An idyllic island serves as a meeting point for a midday lunch where tales of the morning's happenings are shared. Resident iguanas quickly emerge from the jungle brush in search of handouts from anglers (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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The bay offers no shortage of distractions from the search for permit. Jack crevalle are plentiful and easy to catch. Even the tiniest jacks can put a healthy bend in an eight weight. Quarry like this 12 pound horsehead jack, will bruise as well as other fish three times its size (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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Barracuda are a woefully under-targeted species on the flats. This minor specimen attacked the fly with almost incomprehensible speed and aggression and doubled over a stiff 9 weight for the duration of an extended fight (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/2) More extended diversions into freshwater laden channels involve exhilarating panga rides through the mangrove, in search of tarpon and snook (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/2) More extended diversions into freshwater laden channels involve exhilarating panga rides through the mangrove, in search of tarpon and snook (photo: Matt Jones).
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Chris Hunt and guide Julio scan the flats for feeding permit. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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This small permit was plucked from fairly deep water while exploring a blue hole in search of barracuda. When it is the first of the day, even small permit are big. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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Permit caught in Ascension Bay are tagged as part of the Bonefish & Tarpon Trust's "Project Permit", which endeavors to gather valuable data on permit (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/3) The Palometa Club's recipe for success puts two guides in every boat and opts to chase permit on foot whenever possible. The result is more shots at each fish or school of fish thanks to the angler's increased maneuverability and the reduced likelihood of spooking the fish with the boat. Add in the vastly amplified adrenaline factor, and this is permit fishing. (photo: Matt Jones)
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(2/3) The Palometa Club's recipe for success puts two guides in every boat and opts to chase permit on foot whenever possible. The result is more shots at each fish or school of fish thanks to the angler's increased maneuverability and the reduced likelihood of spooking the fish with the boat. Add in the vastly amplified adrenaline factor, and this is permit fishing. (photo: Matt Jones)
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(2/3) The Palometa Club's recipe for success puts two guides in every boat and opts to chase permit on foot whenever possible. The result is more shots at each fish or school of fish thanks to the angler's increased maneuverability and the reduced likelihood of spooking the fish with the boat. Add in the vastly amplified adrenaline factor, and this is permit fishing. (photo: Matt Jones)
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Whether the permit fishing is good, or whether it is bad, there's always one last boat carrying anglers that convinced their guides to check "one last flat". Here, a sole boat motors towards the lighthouse and the calm waters of Punta Allen's shores (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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A permit tears off line, hooked after a lengthy pursuit on foot through what was thankfully only waist deep water. The fish makes several runs before coming to hand (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/3) Every permit is celebrated, but this one perhaps more so. After a week of tough weather and morning encounter that saw a securely hooked permit broken off by a certain over-zealous angler, the cradling and hoisting of this fine specimen brings a collective sense of elation to both guides and anglers. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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(2/3) Every permit is celebrated, but this one perhaps more so. After a week of tough weather and morning encounter that saw a securely hooked permit broken off by a certain over-zealous angler, the cradling and hoisting of this fine specimen brings a collective sense of elation to both guides and anglers. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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(3/3) Every permit is celebrated, but this one perhaps more so. After a week of tough weather and morning encounter that saw a securely hooked permit broken off by a certain over-zealous angler, the cradling and hoisting of this fine specimen brings a collective sense of elation to both guides and anglers. (photo: Chad Shmukler)
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If you catch a permit, it is your job to properly release it. Chris Hunt does so here (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/3) When the conditions on the bay are typical, shots at permit can be plentiful. With the early morning hex broken by a successful foot chase, the shots keep coming, a mere fraction of which are properly taken advantage of. In all, four permit find their way to the boat for tagging, with shots at many more blown along the way (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/3) When the conditions on the bay are typical, shots at permit can be plentiful. With the early morning hex broken by a successful foot chase, the shots keep coming, a mere fraction of which are properly taken advantage of. In all, four permit find their way to the boat for tagging, with shots at many more blown along the way (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/3) When the conditions on the bay are typical, shots at permit can be plentiful. With the early morning hex broken by a successful foot chase, the shots keep coming, a mere fraction of which are properly taken advantage of. In all, four permit find their way to the boat for tagging, with shots at many more blown along the way (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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Guests that land a permit hang a flag on the flagpole that adorns the beach in front of the club. With conditions back to normal, 5 flags are hung and admired on day six (photo: Chad Shmukler).
Jake Dodd makes a killer rod caddy! With cat-like reflexes he leaps elegantly over this obstacle while maintaining control of all the gear.
3:50 AM. We’re stuffing gear in the back of the Subaru. It’s routine at this point. This time of year
we swing for steelhead on the Lower Deschutes any free day we get. Always, up early only to
return late. This trip down is no different; routine. Shut the hatch and we’re peeling away from
the curb. 3:55 AM. On the highway by 4:05 AM. A little off the mark, but it’ll be fine. Plenty of
time to eat some pavement, don the headlamps, string the rods, and position ourselves on our
favorite run before first light.
Despite being a land of staggering plenty, Alaska's southeast is facing a number of challenges. Proposals for new mining operations and hydroelectric dams are looming and the logging industry -- a spectacular and perpetual loser both environmentally and economically -- is looking to re-establish operations in the Tongass National Forest after largely being set aside several decades ago.
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(1/6) The fishing industry in the Tongass, despite its massive harvests, is still largely characterized by family and small business operations. The individuals that drive the industry are passionate about its survival and often eager to share their views on the issues that surround it. When politics overwhelm the conversation, there's always time for some discussion on the virtues of troll-caught salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/6) The fishing industry in the Tongass, despite its massive harvests, is still largely characterized by family and small business operations. The individuals that drive the industry are passionate about its survival and often eager to share their views on the issues that surround it. When politics overwhelm the conversation, there's always time for some discussion on the virtues of troll-caught salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/6) The fishing industry in the Tongass, despite its massive harvests, is still largely characterized by family and small business operations. The individuals that drive the industry are passionate about its survival and often eager to share their views on the issues that surround it. When politics overwhelm the conversation, there's always time for some discussion on the virtues of troll-caught salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(4/6) The fishing industry in the Tongass, despite its massive harvests, is still largely characterized by family and small business operations. The individuals that drive the industry are passionate about its survival and often eager to share their views on the issues that surround it. When politics overwhelm the conversation, there's always time for some discussion on the virtues of troll-caught salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(5/6) The fishing industry in the Tongass, despite its massive harvests, is still largely characterized by family and small business operations. The individuals that drive the industry are passionate about its survival and often eager to share their views on the issues that surround it. When politics overwhelm the conversation, there's always time for some discussion on the virtues of troll-caught salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(6/6) The fishing industry in the Tongass, despite its massive harvests, is still largely characterized by family and small business operations. The individuals that drive the industry are passionate about its survival and often eager to share their views on the issues that surround it. When politics overwhelm the conversation, there's always time for some discussion on the virtues of troll-caught salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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Here, a purse seining operation sets its nets in search of salmon. Purse seiners are responsible for large hauls of fish in Alaska's southeast, with catches from a single net set as high as a thousand fish or more (photo: Earl Harper).
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(1/4) Dotting the shorelines of Alaska's southeast are numerous seafood processing facilities, like this one, where catches are delivered daily and quickly processed, packaged and shipped for sale. Here, processors work through a haul of chum salmon, which will be sold commercially as "keta" or "silverbrite" salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/4) Dotting the shorelines of Alaska's southeast are numerous seafood processing facilities, like this one, where catches are delivered daily and quickly processed, packaged and shipped for sale. Here, processors work through a haul of chum salmon, which will be sold commercially as "keta" or "silverbrite" salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/4) Dotting the shorelines of Alaska's southeast are numerous seafood processing facilities, like this one, where catches are delivered daily and quickly processed, packaged and shipped for sale. Here, processors work through a haul of chum salmon, which will be sold commercially as "keta" or "silverbrite" salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(4/4) Dotting the shorelines of Alaska's southeast are numerous seafood processing facilities, like this one, where catches are delivered daily and quickly processed, packaged and shipped for sale. Here, processors work through a haul of chum salmon, which will be sold commercially as "keta" or "silverbrite" salmon (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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Setting out by boat from a Juneau Harbor for Admiralty Island, talk is of bears. Admiralty is home to the world's highest concentration of brown bears, with a concentration of just under one bear per square mile (photo: Earl Harper).
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(1/3) As we step into a creek that flows across the island, wading boots are hardly in the water for a minute before the first pink salmon is hooked, and the catches continue unabated until, in an effort to up the difficulty -- a senseless tendency that many a fly fisherman is afflicted with -- we decide to try to catch pinks on poppers. It isn't long before the craft is mastered, and the flurry of pinks continues. Eventually, even this 12 pound chum salmon gets in on the top water action (photo: Earl Harper).
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(2/3) As we step into a creek that flows across the island, wading boots are hardly in the water for a minute before the first pink salmon is hooked, and the catches continue unabated until, in an effort to up the difficulty -- a senseless tendency that many a fly fisherman is afflicted with -- we decide to try to catch pinks on poppers. It isn't long before the craft is mastered, and the flurry of pinks continues. Eventually, even this 12 pound chum salmon gets in on the top water action (photo: Earl Harper).
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(3/3) As we step into a creek that flows across the island, wading boots are hardly in the water for a minute before the first pink salmon is hooked, and the catches continue unabated until, in an effort to up the difficulty -- a senseless tendency that many a fly fisherman is afflicted with -- we decide to try to catch pinks on poppers. It isn't long before the craft is mastered, and the flurry of pinks continues. Eventually, even this 12 pound chum salmon gets in on the top water action (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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The surprise for the day -- well, aside from how much gut aching laughter is produced by repeatedly catching pacific salmon on surface flies more suited to largemouth bass -- is this beautiful, feisty cutthroat trout (photo: Earl Harper).
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(1/3) Reaching an unnamed tidal creek less than 20 miles from downtown Juneau is accomplish via a Ward Air DeHavilland Beaver float plane. These more than half-century old aircraft are the most heralded bush planes in Alaska and beyond (photo: Earl Harper).
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(2/3) Reaching an unnamed tidal creek less than 20 miles from downtown Juneau is accomplish via a Ward Air DeHavilland Beaver float plane. These more than half-century old aircraft are the most heralded bush planes in Alaska and beyond (photo: Earl Harper).
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(3/3) Reaching an unnamed tidal creek less than 20 miles from downtown Juneau is accomplish via a Ward Air DeHavilland Beaver float plane. These more than half-century old aircraft are the most heralded bush planes in Alaska and beyond (photo: Earl Harper).
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(1/5) Once the float plane departs, a long walk through thick meadows of rain-soaked marsh grasses ensues, eventually yielding the the chum salmon choked creek. As expected, hordes of dolly varden have followed the spawning chum in to feast on their eggs, and we've followed the dollies (photo: Earl Harper).
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(2/5) Once the float plane departs, a long walk through thick meadows of rain-soaked marsh grasses ensues, eventually yielding the the chum salmon choked creek. As expected, hordes of dolly varden have followed the spawning chum in to feast on their eggs, and we've followed the dollies (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/5) Once the float plane departs, a long walk through thick meadows of rain-soaked marsh grasses ensues, eventually yielding the the chum salmon choked creek. As expected, hordes of dolly varden have followed the spawning chum in to feast on their eggs, and we've followed the dollies (photo: Earl Haper).
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(4/5) Once the float plane departs, a long walk through thick meadows of rain-soaked marsh grasses ensues, eventually yielding the the chum salmon choked creek. As expected, hordes of dolly varden have followed the spawning chum in to feast on their eggs, and we've followed the dollies (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(5/5) Once the float plane departs, a long walk through thick meadows of rain-soaked marsh grasses ensues, eventually yielding the the chum salmon choked creek. As expected, hordes of dolly varden have followed the spawning chum in to feast on their eggs, and we've followed the dollies (photo: Earl Harper).
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The bounty of of the Tongass is shared by many a creature. The remnants of salmon that have been feasted upon by bear, bald eagles and other animals wash up on gravel bars, lie on grassy banks and float downriver (photo: Earl Harper).
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Here, two old grizzly bears tussle a creekside salmon berry bush in search of a mid-day snack (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/2) The vast majority of the fishing in creeks like these is done using bead rigs -- plastic beads designed to imitate salmon eggs -- pegged 1-2 inches above a bare hook. Frowned upon by some, "beading" is more effective and intricate than fishing with yarn-based egg flies and significantly reduces fish mortality due to a drastic decrease in the number of deeply swallowed hooks (photo: Earl Harper).
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(2/2) The vast majority of the fishing in creeks like these is done using bead rigs -- plastic beads designed to imitate salmon eggs -- pegged 1-2 inches above a bare hook. Frowned upon by some, "beading" is more effective and intricate than fishing with yarn-based egg flies and significantly reduces fish mortality due to a drastic decrease in the number of deeply swallowed hooks (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/3) The chum and dolly varden in this creek are impressive specimens. Many of the dolly varden, which gorge virtually non-stop all summer long on salmon eggs, will top 30 inches in length (photo: Earl Harper).
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(2/3) The chum and dolly varden in this creek are impressive specimens. Many of the dolly varden, which gorge virtually non-stop all summer long on salmon eggs, will top 30 inches in length (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/3) The chum and dolly varden in this creek are impressive specimens. Many of the dolly varden, which gorge virtually non-stop all summer long on salmon eggs, will top 30 inches in length (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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Glacier ice and snowmelt fed creeks aren't only good for nourishing salmonids, they're incredibly effective at rapidly chilling Rainer that's spent the day warming in cramped backpacks (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/2) The creek we leave 6 hours after arriving is a largely transformed version of the one that greeted us upon our arrival. The tidal influence here is significant. We leave the marsh grass meadows behind and plod through a seemingly endless, stench filled mudfield (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/2) The creek we leave 6 hours after arriving is a largely transformed version of the one that greeted us upon our arrival. The tidal influence here is significant. We leave the marsh grass meadows behind and plod through a seemingly endless, stench filled mudfield (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/3) Coursing through the Juneau town limits is Montana Creek, a clearwater tributary to the Mendenhall River. Montana Creek offers outstanding fishing for coho, chum and pink salmon, dolly varden and even steelhead. Montana Creek, despite being located in very close proximity to fairly densely developed recreational areas, remains undeveloped and pristine (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/3) Coursing through the Juneau town limits is Montana Creek, a clearwater tributary to the Mendenhall River. Montana Creek offers outstanding fishing for coho, chum and pink salmon, dolly varden and even steelhead. Montana Creek, despite being located in very close proximity to fairly densely developed recreational areas, remains undeveloped and pristine (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/3) Coursing through the Juneau town limits is Montana Creek, a clearwater tributary to the Mendenhall River. Montana Creek offers outstanding fishing for coho, chum and pink salmon, dolly varden and even steelhead. Montana Creek, despite being located in very close proximity to fairly densely developed recreational areas, remains undeveloped and pristine (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(1/3) A midday break on a footbridge crossing Montana Creek reveals a chum salmon holding in a small pool just downstream of the bridge. The fact that we've arrived on Montana with Tenkara rods and dolly varden as our target seems to ward no one off the challenge, and it isn't long before Chris Hunt is mid stream swinging a pink streamer to the oblivious chum. The 10-pound salmon swiftly obliges and the task of a Tenkara-caught salmon is achieved (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(2/3) A midday break on a footbridge crossing Montana Creek reveals a chum salmon holding in a small pool just downstream of the bridge. The fact that we've arrived on Montana with Tenkara rods and dolly varden as our target seems to ward no one off the challenge, and it isn't long before Chris Hunt is mid stream swinging a pink streamer to the oblivious chum. The 10-pound salmon swiftly obliges and the task of a Tenkara-caught salmon is achieved (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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(3/3) A midday break on a footbridge crossing Montana Creek reveals a chum salmon holding in a small pool just downstream of the bridge. The fact that we've arrived on Montana with Tenkara rods and dolly varden as our target seems to ward no one off the challenge, and it isn't long before Chris Hunt is mid stream swinging a pink streamer to the oblivious chum. The 10-pound salmon obliges and the task of a Tenkara-caught salmon is achieved (photo: Chad Shmukler).
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The abundance of the waters and the rainforest that cover southeast Alaska is leaves no one in this group -- which hails from across the United States -- without a deep, pervasive sense of reverence. The need to preserve such an unparalleled resource through any reasonable means seems a matter of common sense, rather than one for debate, especially given the lessons already learned by far-reaching regions of the lower 48 and Canada that squandered their similar resources.
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