Fly fishing Greenland for giant arctic char

Greenland rising

North to the land of reindeer and char

by Earl Harper - Wednesday, Nov 8th, 2017

Greenland, the largest island in the world. Three times the size of Texas, but with a population of less than 60,000 people, it is one of the least populated countries in the world. Though Greenland’s ice sheet still covers around 80% of the island and is almost 10,000 feet thick in places, Greenland’s ice is melting at an astonishing rate due to anthropogenic climate change. Greenland's ice sheet is so thick and immense, that it literally deforms the earth's crust. But with melt season starting earlier each year and lasting longer, the sheet has lost over a trillion tons of ice in recent years. As a result, the bedrock below the island nation is experiencing uplift.

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Greenland is rising (photo: Earl Harper).

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As you approach the town of Maniitsoq, little islands are scattered around like mismatched pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. Homes here are colorfully painted, some say to help brighten the dreary winters. Others claim the myriad hues originated with building kits delivered from Scandinavia in the 1700s—where buildings were painted a particular color based on their function. The tradition in both locations has continued, even though color no longer designates use (photos: Earl Harper).

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Many of Greenland's rivers have large numbers of sea-run Arctic char. The Kangia River—seen here— is one of them (photo: Earl Harper).

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Fish are plentiful and usually not difficult to hook, but are an exhilarating challenge to land. Still, thanks to the Kangia River's enormous bounty, 50-fish days aren't just possible, they're common (photo: Earl Harper).

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Swinging flies through the Kangia River's deep pools can produce char in the 8 to 10 pound range (photos: Earl Harper).

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A sculpture formed from the rib bones of a whale overlooks the North Atlantic. Greenlandic Inuits have been dependent on the island’s resources for some 4,500-5,000 years. Fish, birds, land and marine mammals all contribute to provide food, clothing, shelter, and tools (photo: Earl Harper).

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Reindeer remain one of the most important natural resources in Greenland. The large deer are a vital source of meat and hunting reindeer has long been an important part of Greenlandic history and culture. Because of their antler size, which in relation to their bodies is the largest among the deer family, many trophy hunters pay for the opportunity to harvest reindeer—making them also an important part of the tourist economy (photo: Earl Harper).

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Death gives life to the people. Out of respect for the animal, every part will be eaten or used. It is common practice for hunters to share the bounty with elders and others in the community who are not capable of going out on a hunt for themselves (photo: Earl Harper).

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Anglers gather at a small base camp perched above the river to meet, eat lunch, change clothing or drink hot coffee (photo: Earl Harper).

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Char enter the Kangia at varying times. Fresh runs of fish bring bright, silver char like this one—especially on incoming tides (photo: Earl Harper).

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Fish that have been in freshwater for some time take on late summer and autumn spawning colors that often seem impossibly vivid (photos: Earl Harper).

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At the end of the day, hikes back to Kangia River Lodge can seem long and rife with elevation changes, but one can almost always count on fresh wild blueberries for sustenance along the way (photo: Earl Harper).

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Lucky anglers back at the lodge, toasting the day with whiskey and cigars, will be treated to a show of the Northern Lights before they leave Greenland behind (photo: Earl Harper).

Greenland