Though I can't say it comes as much of a surprise, my best laid plans of providing frequent updates from Juneau have fallen by the wayside. It's not that the connectivity has been an issue, but that there's simply been too much of the Tongass to breathe in.
Several days of uncharacteristic weather that brought balmy temperatures and bluebird skies have given way to more expected grey, cloudy days with sprinkling rains. We've seen the Tongass by foot, by boat and by air and each day's destination has brought new views of the staggering biomass of the rainforest.
Chum and pink salmon overwhelm these creeks and rivers. Gazing downstream, pushes of fish lift and move water in almost incomprehensible fashion. Dozens of fish lie at your feet as you cast and wading across the river sends off an explosion of fleeing salmon and dolly varden, all of which resume their spawning and feeding activity moments later. Fish counts each day have been measured in dozens.
Evidence of bears is everywhere. Downed brush, paw prints and uncomfortably fresh scat seems to be around every turn. And this place shits bald eagles. Times when eagles soar overhead vastly outnumber those in which they don't.
More to come.